Research
Wave height in The Gulf of Trieste - forecast and measurement
There are 3 buoys [1] in the Gulf of Trieste operated by Slovenian Environment Agency (ARSO) which make wave height measurements. Buoy Vida is taking measurements from 2006 [2]. There are multiple numerical models which predict wave climate. One of those is WAM model from National and Kapodistrian University of Athens [3]. Wave model predominately underestimates high sea waves in the Gulf of Trieste. Therefore, adjustment equation corrects WAM model data [4].
Graph shows following data for the current day in the local time on the coordinates of buoy Vida:
WAM numerical model wave height
WAM numerical model wave height adjusted with equation
Buoy Vida wave height measurement
Currently measurement from buoy Vida is not available because of maintenance [2]. Therefore, graph temporary shows data for buoy Zarja instead.
Nowadays weather forecast for the next few days is quite reliable. However, reliability in unstable weather conditions is lower. Wave height prediction is based on weather forecast. Therefore, numerical models for wave forecast are even less reliable. As duration of continuous measurements with buoys is relatively short in the Gulf of Trieste (from 2006), wave data can be extended with results of numerical models. This is beneficial for calculation of design wave height.
It was found out that WAM numerical model for wave forecast predominately underestimates high seas waves. Therefore, equation to adjust numerical wave height from typical wave directions with high seas was defined for the Gulf of Trieste [4]. For directions of waves which do not have typically high seas, equation is not applicable.
References
[1] Program hidrološkega monitoringa površinskih voda za obdobje 2016–2020.
[2] Current data from buoy Vida - Piran.
[4] Analysis of wave climate and evaluation of design wave height for the Gulf of Trieste